Thursday, February 26, 2015

Tiffany's Picasso Kunzite Necklace

In 1989 Tiffany & Co. donated the gorgeous Picasso Kunzite Necklace made by Paloma Picasso. This gorgeous 22.96-carat cushion-cut pink kunzite cocktail demonstrates the luminous quality of kunzite. Photo ©2015 EraGem Jewelry.

In 1989 Tiffany & Co. donated the gorgeous Picasso Kunzite Necklace made by Paloma Picasso. This gorgeous 22.96-carat cushion-cut pink kunzite cocktail ring demonstrates the luminous quality of kunzite. Photo ©2015 EraGem Jewelry.

The Picasso Kunzite Necklace is on permanent display at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History. It was donated by Tiffany & Co. to the prestigious museum in 1989. Nearly ten years into her career as a jewelry designer, Paloma Picasso (1949-present), who designed this exquisite necklace, had become an internationally respected jewelry designer.

Gemstone Bikinis & YSL

Ms. Picasso first entered the world of jewels and gemstones in the late 1970s, after a stroke of imagination inspired her to craft necklaces out of the gemstone bikinis worn by the cabaret performers in the Folies Bergeres. At this time, she worked as a stylist for the shows {2}. However, having discovered her passion in styling those flashy necklaces, she soon enrolled in jewelry design school {1}. Around that time, Ms. Picasso had become a chic fashionista. Currently, her name can be found in the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame {1}. In the 1970s, Paloma's penchant for vintage flea market clothes caught the eye of her friend and legendary designer, Yves Saint Laurent {4}. His "Scandal Collection" debunked the traditions of haute couture with its nod to the French Occupation, drag queens, and theatrical mixture of new and old {4}. By the time Paloma graduated from design school, Mr. Laurent had been captivated by her sense of style for a number of years. Naturally, he was one of the first people to whom Paloma showed her first collection of jewels {1}. YSL immediately commissioned her to design a collection for his clothing lines.

Tiffany & Co.

Sometime later, Paloma went on to work for the House of Zolotas, where she refined her skills in gold and gemstones {1}. In 1979, after staging a window display for Tiffany's, Ms. Picasso was invited by Tiffany's design director, John Loring, to join the Tiffany design team {1}. Today, Paloma Picasso is one of a small handful of designers given their own signature collections at Tiffany's. In 1986, Paloma Picasso was well known for her signature use of large semiprecious stones in bold colors. John Loring is reported to have described the hallmark of her designs as "X's, scribbles and zigzags, all sculpted in gold" {1}. Four years later, the editors at Gems & Gemology credited her with "helping to broaden consumers' acceptance of colored stones other than the ubiquitous ruby, emerald, and sapphire in high-fashion jewelry" {p. 87}. One of her favorite colored stones was kunzite, a pink-to-lilac colored form of spodumene.

The Picasso Kunzite Necklace

True to form, Paloma fashioned what has become one of the world's most famous kunzite jewels. A marvelous cushion-cut, deep pink kunzite stone, which weighs an astonishing 393-60 carats, appears to float within the embrace of an 18k yellow gold and diamond ribbon. A Picasso X crosses beneath the gem's base. This exquisite pendant hangs from a string of 30 South Sea baroque pearls. The clasp is hidden within another ribbon X made of yellow gold and white diamonds. Ms. Picasso designed the necklace to commemorate Tiffany & Co.'s 100th anniversary. ~Angela Magnotti Andrews, Staff Writer

References

  1. About Tiffany & Co. "Paloma Picasso." Accessed February 24, 2015.
  2. "From the stage to the garden: Paloma Picasso talks inspiration with Vogue," Vogue Australia, September 5, 2013.
  3. "Jewelry in the 1980s: A Retrospective," Gems & Gemology, Spring 1990, p. 76-93.
  4. "Paloma Picasso, the seventies IT girl inspired YSL 'Scandal Collection'." A. G. Nauta Couture blog, June 29, 2014.
  5. Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History. "Picasso Kunzite Necklace," Mineral Gallery. Accessed February 24, 2015.